Collection: Old Money Knitwear

Buy old money knitwear for the way it behaves after five years, not five minutes. Good yarn softens rather than pills, holds its neckline, and settles into the shoulders of whoever wears it. That is the whole argument for spending more on fewer jumpers, and it is why the pieces here are organised by fibre and gauge rather than by season.

Fibres: cashmere, merino and lambswool compared

Cashmere is the warmest for its weight and softest against skin, which makes it the fine gauge choice over a shirt. Merino is springier and better suited to daily wear. Lambswool sits between the two and takes cable and Aran patterns best. Most old money knitwear worth owning is one of these three: a grey cashmere crew neck and a merino equivalent do different jobs, and a full wardrobe wants both.

Crew, V, shawl and quarter zip: choosing the neckline

The neckline decides what the piece can be worn with. A crew neck works alone or over a t-shirt and hides a collar entirely. A V neck exists to frame one, which is why it belongs with your shirts. A quarter zip adjusts through the day and reads as sporting rather than smart. A shawl collar is the most relaxed of the four and the least suited to tailoring.

Styling old money knitwear without looking dressed up

Keep the knit plain and let the trouser carry the texture. A fine navy or oatmeal knit over pleated flannel or tailored trousers is the whole formula, and it survives most of the year. Cardigans want a softer trouser and a loafer. For warmer months the same logic moves to cotton and linen weights, alongside the linen sets that carry summer. A buttoned cardigan replaces a jacket indoors.

Knitwear questions, answered

Is cashmere worth the money for everyday wear?

For a fine gauge piece worn over a shirt, yes, because nothing gives that warmth at that weight. For a chunky knit taking daily abuse, merino or lambswool makes more sense and costs less. One good cashmere piece and two hard wearing wool ones serves most men.

How do you stop a jumper from pilling?

Pilling comes from friction, so it appears first under the arms and where a bag rubs. Rest a knit for a day between wearings and use a cashmere comb rather than a razor. Cheap yarn with short fibres pills whatever you do.

What colours work best in a knitwear wardrobe?

Navy, charcoal, grey, oatmeal and cream cover almost everything and combine with each other freely. Bottle green and burgundy work as the single accent piece. Anything brighter fights the rest of the wardrobe and gets worn twice a year.

Can you wear a jumper over a collared shirt?

Yes, and it is one of the most useful combinations in this style. Use a fine gauge in a V or crew, keep the collar unbuttoned at the top, and let a centimetre of cuff show. A chunky knit swallows a collar and looks bulky.

How should knitwear fit across the shoulders?

The shoulder seam should sit where your shoulder ends, exactly as it would on a jacket. Too wide and the piece hangs; too narrow and it pulls across the back when you reach forward. Length should cover the waistband with a little to spare.

Should wool jumpers be washed or dry cleaned?

Hand wash in cool water with a wool detergent, then dry flat on a towel and never on a hanger. Dry cleaning is harsher than most people assume. Two or three washes a season is plenty.