Old Money Outerwear Men

Old money outerwear for men is chosen for the shoulders it sits on and the years it will last. A trench over a suit, a harrington over a knit, a safari jacket in the shoulder seasons: each covers a different half of the calendar, and none of them shouts. Wool, cotton gabardine, oiled leather. Colours that stay in the beige and navy range, hardware that stays quiet.

A coat is the first thing anyone sees and the last thing most men buy properly. Old money outerwear for men rewards the opposite order, because the outer layer sets the register of everything beneath it. The pieces here divide cleanly by weight and by the temperature range each one actually handles.

The trench coat: the one that covers a suit

A trench is the piece most old money outerwear for men is judged against, cut long and full enough to close over tailoring without pulling across the back. Beige is the reference and navy is the quieter alternative. Belt it rather than buckling it flat, and let the collar stand in bad weather. A beige trench works over the tailoring in our suits from October onwards.

Harringtons, safari jackets and shoulder season weight

The harrington is short, waist length and blouson cut, designed to be worn over a knit rather than a jacket. The safari jacket is looser, four pocketed and cut from cotton drill, and it replaces a blazer entirely on warm days. Both sit at the same weight and cover the same months. A navy harrington over a fine knit is the most useful spring combination there is.

Leather, wool and matching old money outerwear for men to the cold

Leather aviators and suede harringtons hold wind out better than wool and improve visibly with age. Wool coats are warmer for their bulk and drape better over tailoring. A cashmere blend gives the softest hand and the shortest life, so keep it for evenings rather than commutes. Whatever the shell, the layer beneath decides comfort, which is where fine gauge knits earn their place.

Outerwear questions, answered

What length should a trench coat be?

Somewhere between mid thigh and just below the knee for most builds. Shorter starts to read as a jacket and loses the line that makes a trench work over tailoring. Longer suits taller men and heavier cloth, but it becomes awkward when seated.

Is a harrington jacket smart or casual?

Casual, though it sits at the top of that range. It works over a knit, a polo or an oxford shirt with chinos or flannel. It does not work over a suit jacket, since the length cuts the tailoring in the wrong place.

What colour coat should you buy first?

Beige or camel if you wear a lot of navy and grey, navy if your wardrobe leans brown and tan. Both go over almost everything and neither dates. Black is the least versatile of the three in this style, despite being the most bought.

How should a coat fit over a suit jacket?

You should be able to fasten it and cross your arms without the back pulling. Check the shoulder seam sits slightly wider than your own and that the sleeve covers the jacket cuff. A coat bought to fit over a shirt alone will never work over tailoring.

Do leather jackets suit this style?

A plain aviator or bomber in brown or navy does, provided the hardware is minimal and the finish is matte rather than glossy. Heavy zips, studs and biker detailing belong to a different tradition. Leather also improves with wear, which fits the buy once principle.

How do you care for a wool coat between seasons?

Brush it down after each wearing to lift surface dirt before it sets into the nap. Store it on a broad wooden hanger with room either side, never compressed in a full wardrobe. One dry clean at the end of the season is enough.