Collection: Old Money Suits

Everything visible about old money suits is decided before the first fitting: the cloth, the button configuration, and how many pieces. Those three choices set the register, and no amount of alteration afterwards changes them. This page groups the range the way a tailor would, by construction rather than by occasion.

Single breasted, double breasted and three piece

Old money suits come in three configurations and the choice is structural. A single breasted two button is the neutral option, suiting the widest range of builds. Double breasted adds structure across the chest and should stay fastened when standing, which makes it more formal by default. The waistcoat of a three piece keeps the shirt covered when the jacket comes off, and it is the reason a navy three piece holds up through a long day better than a two piece.

Cloth: worsted wool, tweed and warm weather options

Worsted wool is smooth, holds a crease and belongs in town. Tweed is heavier, rougher to the hand and reads country, which is why a tweed three piece looks wrong in a boardroom and right in November. Linen and linen blends crease openly and suit heat. Whatever the cloth, the shirt underneath sets the tone, and the options are in our shirts.

Fit and finishing: what old money suits get right

Check three things and ignore the rest: the shoulder seam ending where your shoulder does, roughly a centimetre of shirt cuff showing, and a trouser that touches the shoe with one soft crease. Sleeve length and waist suppression can be altered; shoulders effectively cannot. Finish with a lace up rather than a loafer, which is where formal shoes matter more than most men allow.

Suit questions, answered

What colour suit should you buy first?

Navy, without much argument. It works for interviews, weddings, funerals and dinners, and it flatters nearly every complexion. Charcoal is the correct second purchase, and only then does mid grey or brown start to earn its place.

Is a three piece suit too formal for everyday wear?

It is a step up, but the waistcoat also makes the outfit more flexible rather than less. Removing the jacket leaves you properly dressed instead of in shirtsleeves. In tweed or a soft grey flannel it reads country rather than ceremonial.

How should a suit jacket fit through the shoulders?

The seam should end exactly where your shoulder ends, with no overhang and no pulling. This is the single alteration a tailor cannot make cheaply or invisibly. Judge every jacket on this point before looking at anything else.

Can you wear brown shoes with a navy suit?

Yes, and in this style it is often the better choice. Dark brown or oxblood softens navy and reads less severe than black, particularly in daylight. Save black for evening events and anything genuinely formal.

What is the difference between tweed and worsted wool?

Worsted is spun from combed long fibres, giving a smooth surface that takes a sharp crease. Tweed is woven from coarser woollen yarn, so it is heavier, warmer and textured. The first belongs to city tailoring and the second to country dressing.

How many suits does a wardrobe actually need?

Two covers most lives: navy for everything and charcoal for formal evenings. A third in tweed or grey flannel adds seasonal range once those are in place. Buying a fourth before wearing the first three regularly is usually a mistake.